Drop-in Electrical Lamp for Railroad Lanterns

Railroad lantern collectors would enjoy lighting their lanterns, but would prefer not to burn sooty kerosene. Here a way to construct an electrical lamp that replaces the kerosene pot. The goals of this project included:

I found that 2-inch schedule 40 PVC plumbing fittings are the same diameter as kerosene pots. Unfortunately, plumbing caps have a rounded end that does not sit nicely in the lantern frame. Fortunately, furniture grade PVC caps have a flat bottom and fit nicely in the lantern frame. Note that this lamp fitting only works in lanterns that use a drop-in pot (very common type of lantern). It will not work with lanterns that use externally mounted pots such as pinch pots or Dietz Vesta frames.

2-inch furniture grade schedule 40 caps. Notice the flat ends.

Use center finding tool on the combination square. Since the pen or pencil doesn’t draw exactly against the straight edge, draw one line, turn 180 degrees and draw a parallel line. Do the same at 90 degrees.

Make a depression in the center with a scratch awl.

Use a 3/8 inch brad point bit to drill a hole in the center. I used a drill press to ensure straight drilling.

Use a flat spade bit to form a recess for the nut. I used a 3/4 inch spade bit. Do not use a forstner bit nor any bit with barbs at the edge. They will drill completely through the plastic before you achieve the correct depth. Use a drill press to control the depth.

Since the 1/8 inch IP threaded nipples are slightly wider than 3/8 inch, lightly use a reamer to enlarge the hole so that the nipple slides through easily.

Notice how the nut fits nicely in the recess. This nut is about 3/32 inch thick.

Here are several options for sockets. The top socket is an Edison socket, the lower two are candelabra sockets. The bottom socket’s cardboard sleeve has been painted a brass color. If you paint, choose any color. Note the assortment of threaded nipples, hex head nipple, washers, and check ring.

Ace Hardware sells brass colored spray paint.

One way to quickly spray many socket sleeves it to stack them over a stick.

Here is an Edison socket mounted on a nipple with a washer at the base. The top of the socket should be about 3 inches high for C ‑7 lamps. Lower the socket for larger lamps. Wire it with SPT‑1 lamp cord. The ribbed insulation connects to the light-colored terminal (or white wire) and to the wide blade on the plug. Tie a knot around the nipple so that the wire does not pull off the terminals. SPT‑2 is too thick for this application.

Here is a candelabra socket mounted on a hex head nipple with a check ring at the base. Alternatively, if the lantern frame has a drainage hole in the bottom, you can feed the wire through the nipple and out the bottom. Install the plug after feeding the wire through the drainage hole. The top of the socket should be about 3 inches high for C ‑7 lamps.

The 2‑inch cap is too short to sit nicely in the lantern frame. Extend it with half a joint fitting.

I used a hack saw to cut the joint in half. File off any protuberances.

Cement (glue) a short piece of 2‑inch PVC pipe (I used a 3/4 inch length) so that the extension will easily fit in the cap.

Assemble extensions with one masked with blue tape in preparation for painting

If you want to paint the plastic, use a paint formulated for use on plastic such as Rust‑oleum Universal Advanced Formula.

Tape the short section of pipe extending from the fitting to keep it free of paint.

Completed Edison electrical insert sitting next to a genuine lantern pot.

Electrical insert sitting in a lantern frame with a candelabra adapter and LED C‑7 lamp. This is a Minleon LED warm white lamp. It maintains it brightness over long use. Note that the lamp cord fits snugly in the slot for the wick adjustment shaft.

Electrified lantern with a red globe and a red LED lamp.

Electrified lantern with a clear globe and a warm white LED lamp.

Construct a Drop-in Electrical Lamp for Railroad Lanterns